Frequently Asked Questions
- How do I trim my skins?
- How do I get my skins to stick in extreme cold?
- Why don't you sell cheat sheets and stuff sacks?
- Why are your skins so much less expensive?
- What are the advantages of low bulk, supple climbing skins?
- Why do these skins glide better than most skins?
- How do I dry my skins?
- Can I get my old skins reglued?
- Were any chipmunks harmed in the manufacturing process?
Please see the Trim Directions page.
CSD skins (and all other brands for that matter!) should stick to your skis in temperatures down to about 0°F (-17°C). However when it is colder, you may need to take some extra measures.
The best thing to do in temperatures below about 0°F (-17°C), or anytime your adhesive behaves less than ideally, is to keep your skins inside your coat so that the glue stays warm. Our testers have found that even in really cold temps it is possible to get many "sticks" out of a pair before they fail if you are diligent about keeping the adhesive warm. It also helps to firmly press the skin onto the ski and "set" the adhesive by skinning the first 10 minutes or so very carefully so as not to slip the skin off to the side of the ski.
In the event of complete glue failure, it is usually possible to rejuvenate most skins. There are several tricks. If the skin is covered with frost then first you need to brush the frost off the skin. After a vigorous brushing, there is usually a bit of fine frost remaining. Next work the length of the skin by breathing on it to melt the residual frost and then wiping off the freshly melted section on your sleeve to dry it. Then firmly stick the warmer, drier area to the ski base. Skin carefully for a couple minutes to "set" the glue.
(These tricks work well with all the other brands as well.)
Our goal is to bring you the best skins, at the lowest price, and with the least waste! We could include stuff sacks with the skins, but that would up the price. Most of our customers have a drawer full of old skin sacks. Never mind that that most people don't take the time to stuff their skins back in the bag at the top of every hill or can't hang onto accessories to save their lives. So instead we opted to sell just the skins and bare essentials for less money and offer an optional stuff sack on the side. Likewise with the long term storage sheets that are available through other companies, we found that many people either lose the sheets or don't find them necessary. So we again decided to only include the essentials and keep the price right!
First, we manufacture, and sell direct, eliminating many marketing and distribution steps. Second, we decided to eliminate the excess junk that comes with most other products. This includes stuff sacks, cheat sheets and excess packaging (we ship our skins with no extra bags, and no extra paperwork or cardboard boxes). Third, we have great sources for many of the materials allowing us to keep our costs down. Last, we have a very automated manufacturing operation, incurring a very low labor cost.
Basically our goal is to bring you the best skins at the best price with the least garbage.
In the age of fat skis, low bulk, supple skins are becoming a necessity. Folding a stiff frozen pair of 130mm skins and stuffing them in your coat not only makes you look like the Michelin® Man but makes it hard to move! Although some people prefer rigid skin material for folding in high winds, our testers last year had no problem with our material. We are confident that we have found the right balance between pack-ability and handling characteristics. Another big advantage of a flexible skin is that it can be lapped back on itself. Stiffer skins will spring open requiring sewing or riveting the attachment hardware. This makes the skins less adjustable in the field.
Our skins glide better than most skins because we use the original plush from the old purple Ascension skins. In addition, we use a proprietary back-coating that fixes the fibers in their flat angle. Other skins start out with their fibers flat, but with time the fibers will "fuzz up" losing their directional orientation. Read More...
Wet skins should be hung up and dried individually. After drying stick them together. Leaving wet skins stuck together will cause the glue to "hydrolyze" making the glue soft and gooey and prone to leave residue on the skis.
All glues have a limited lifespan. However, most of the time, your glue can be reactivated without resorting to a complete reglue.
There are basically three ways that glue goes bad.
- It can get soft and gooey, leaving residue on your bases. This is caused by sticking the skins together with water in the interface. Resticking will work the water into the glue.
- It can get contaminated or just old and lose it's stickiness.
- It can get balled up and lumpy, leaving only high points for sticking to the ski base.
Reactivating the glue is easy to do with a waxing iron. The method is the same for all the above problems.
- Heat the iron to a medium heat.
- Clamp the skin firmly to a flat surface.
- Lightly place the iron on the glue surface.
- Be careful not to push the glue, but just let the iron gently float across the surface leaving a "wet look".
- If the glue has a lot of water in it, you will see the glue "foam up" and sizzle as the water evaporates.
- If the glue has just lost it's stickiness the melting will drive the contaminates into the glue, and bring fresh glue to the surface allowing the glue molecules to spring back to their original (tacky) shape.
- If the problem was just lumpy glue, this method will restore the surface for better contact and adhesion.
This method works most of the time, but if you still are not getting the stick that you want, you can take them into your shop for a reglue. You can do it yourself with Black Diamond's Gold Label glue, or the iron on strips. We do not sell reglueing material, but our glue is compatible with both G3 and Black Diamond regluing material.
All chipmunk pelts are taken from chipmunks that died of natural causes. It is a solemn and respectful process.